I'm somewhat familiar with them. I replaced the AC system on a Dodge Daytona. Used aftermarket lines that didn't quite fit the compressor, so I had to grind it down enough to get it to fit. PITA, but I got it to work - held a vacuum when I took it to a guy (I didn't have the equipment for this) to draw it down and then put R12 in it. What I learned from that was 1) I'm a very inefficient mechanic and 2) Don't make this my day job.murdock » 09 May 2025, 3:34 pm » wrote: ↑ In my experience never underestimate the stupid of automotive engineers.
AC lines are preshaped and will run the way they do.
The other possibility is that for some unfathomable reason they had one made like that.
I used my Jeep (JK Wrangler Unlimited) to pull a couple of trees down. Burnt the clutch. Jeeps aren't made to do work.DeezerShoove » 09 May 2025, 5:12 pm » wrote: ↑ This is true. But with all the dinky **** going on inside, the tranny is the weakest part of the drive train.
I'm hard on my stuff. Not impossibly so, but, I tow **** and pull stumps, etc.
That's why I get a truck. My little guy can tow 7500. Way more than I need 95% of the time.
I know guys with small dicks (big trucks).
Skans » 09 May 2025, 7:01 pm » wrote: ↑ I used my Jeep (JK Wrangler Unlimited) to pull a couple of trees down. Burnt the clutch. Jeeps aren't made to do work.
Eggs are produced here. No tariffs.JohnnyYou » 09 May 2025, 8:37 pm » wrote: ↑ Besides.. The tariiffs have made Eggs as cheap as White M&Ms. You ain't gettin' yo money for nothing and we sure as heel ain't getting the Jeep for Free
Is that supposed to impress anyone? Does the vehicle have a clutch or paddle shifters on the steering wheel.
You drive juice boxes, fruitcake.
Skans » 09 May 2025, 7:01 pm » wrote: ↑ I used my Jeep (JK Wrangler Unlimited) to pull a couple of trees down. Burnt the clutch. Jeeps aren't made to do work.
Skans » 09 May 2025, 6:58 pm » wrote: ↑ I'm somewhat familiar with them. I replaced the AC system on a Dodge Daytona. Used aftermarket lines that didn't quite fit the compressor, so I had to grind it down enough to get it to fit. PITA, but I got it to work - held a vacuum when I took it to a guy (I didn't have the equipment for this) to draw it down and then put R12 in it. What I learned from that was 1) I'm a very inefficient mechanic and 2) Don't make this my day job.
How high up in a 120 foot Douglas Fir would you set the tie off point...?DeezerShoove » 09 May 2025, 9:48 pm » wrote: ↑ Any time you have to feather a clutch you're cooking it.
I use arborist ropes for that type of ****.
The specs on one of my ropes is (going by memory) 15% stretch at 50% load.
That way you just pull the **** tight as you can and keep working on the stump or tree.
I'm pretty successful at the stuff. Dropping 100 foot trees between houses and fences.
Not damaging transmissions. All that ****. When I hear people paying $2000 to remove a tree, I cringe.
Gotta watch out for trees rolling off each other's canopy. That can be a fooler.
*GHETTOBLASTER » 09 May 2025, 10:51 pm » wrote: ↑ How high up in a 120 foot Douglas Fir would you set the tie off point...?
The closest tie off point at the other end of the rope is a similar sized tree 200 feet away.
For extra power and stability another pull rope could be sent to another tree that's about 30 degrees from the other.
I don't think one of those trees could be pulled over..it rarely happens naturally with them during storms.
Looks like I'd need 400 feet of rope at whatever that would cost per foot.
The one I referenced is 18,000 lbs tensile 200 feet long. It's my go-to.*GHETTOBLASTER » 09 May 2025, 10:51 pm » wrote: ↑ How high up in a 120 foot Douglas Fir would you set the tie off point...?
The closest tie off point at the other end of the rope is a similar sized tree 200 feet away.
For extra power and stability another pull rope could be sent to another tree that's about 30 degrees from the other.
I don't think one of those trees could be pulled over..it rarely happens naturally with them during storms.
Looks like I'd need 400 feet of rope at whatever that would cost per foot.
DeezerShoove » 09 May 2025, 11:28 pm » wrote: ↑ The one I referenced is 18,000 lbs tensile 200 feet long. It's my go-to.
I'm completely self-taught and trial & error battle worn.
Learning proper v-notch and hinging techniques are important the bigger the tree gets.
Once they're tied off and you begin to cut, you really can't change your mind. Committed to angles and gravity at that point.
I tie off as high as possible of course. 12-14 ft. up is usually plenty if you can fell the tree sort of in a direction favorable to its natural lean.
The arbor rope can pull it "backward" some.
I have done that with my truck 170 away, pulled tight, cut the wedge and watched the tree bend considerably toward the pull. Then go move the truck 20 feet further to re-tighten the pull. Then finish the cut.
When you get the hinge right the pull doesn't have to be exactly line line with the fall zone. It will pretty much fall where the hinge tells it to fall. The rope quits helping about when you yell "timber!"
Hint: You can angle the hinge a little to help aim the fall too. If the hinge is level it will fall quite predictably in a given direction. Sometimes there's stuff in the way of logistics of your escape route (for example) and can force a less-then-perfect cut. One way you can educate yourself a bit before you cut stupid is with a drinking straw. Bend it on an angle and that will inform you how your hinge cut will behave,
btw
A running bowline knot is very helpful. Easy to tie doesn't tighten up so hard you can't untie it.
Thanks very much for all the info..!DeezerShoove » 09 May 2025, 11:28 pm » wrote: ↑ The one I referenced is 18,000 lbs tensile 200 feet long. It's my go-to.
I'm completely self-taught and trial & error battle worn.
Learning proper v-notch and hinging techniques are important the bigger the tree gets.
Once they're tied off and you begin to cut, you really can't change your mind. Committed to angles and gravity at that point.
I tie off as high as possible of course. 12-14 ft. up is usually plenty if you can fell the tree sort of in a direction favorable to its natural lean.
The arbor rope can pull it "backward" some.
I have done that with my truck 170 away, pulled tight, cut the wedge and watched the tree bend considerably toward the pull. Then go move the truck 20 feet further to re-tighten the pull. Then finish the cut.
When you get the hinge right the pull doesn't have to be exactly line line with the fall zone. It will pretty much fall where the hinge tells it to fall. The rope quits helping about when you yell "timber!"
Hint: You can angle the hinge a little to help aim the fall too. If the hinge is level it will fall quite predictably in a given direction. Sometimes there's stuff in the way of logistics of your escape route (for example) and can force a less-then-perfect cut. One way you can educate yourself a bit before you cut stupid is with a drinking straw. Bend it on an angle and that will inform you how your hinge cut will behave,
btw
A running bowline knot is very helpful. Easy to tie doesn't tighten up so hard you can't untie it.
In your Ghutto you know you are Nahtzo.*GHETTOBLASTER » 10 May 2025, 1:45 am » wrote: ↑ Johnny U claims that White Men have for 1000s of years gone into the jungles of Sub Saharan Africa to capture entire gene pools of Negro jungle savages, give each of them IQ tests and then murder the ****** who test in the "intelligent range".
This is Johnny U's explanation for why the negro lags behind the rest of mankind behaviorally and intellectually...........![]()
For Johnny's theory to be possible, this sequence of events had to have happened over and over 1000s of times.![]()
Now here we have poor Johnny trying to claim that MAGA has "lost their ****".......