Today 6:37 am
this post reads like your self taught was by a search engine on the internet.Deezer Shoove » Yesterday, 11:28 pm » wrote: ↑ The one I referenced is 18,000 lbs tensile 200 feet long. It's my go-to.
I'm completely self-taught and trial & error battle worn.
Learning proper v-notch and hinging techniques are important the bigger the tree gets.
Once they're tied off and you begin to cut, you really can't change your mind. Committed to angles and gravity at that point.
I tie off as high as possible of course. 12-14 ft. up is usually plenty if you can fell the tree sort of in a direction favorable to its natural lean.
The arbor rope can pull it "backward" some.
I have done that with my truck 170 away, pulled tight, cut the wedge and watched the tree bend considerably toward the pull. Then go move the truck 20 feet further to re-tighten the pull. Then finish the cut.
When you get the hinge right the pull doesn't have to be exactly line line with the fall zone. It will pretty much fall where the hinge tells it to fall. The rope quits helping about when you yell "timber!"
Hint: You can angle the hinge a little to help aim the fall too. If the hinge is level it will fall quite predictably in a given direction. Sometimes there's stuff in the way of logistics of your escape route (for example) and can force a less-then-perfect cut. One way you can educate yourself a bit before you cut stupid is with a drinking straw. Bend it on an angle and that will inform you how your hinge cut will behave,
btw
A running bowline knot is very helpful. Easy to tie doesn't tighten up so hard you can't untie it.